Chef Gregory Marchand, nicknamed “Frenchie” by Jamie Oliver during his stint at Oliver’s 15 restaurant, now mans the helm at Frenchie in the 2ème, a tiny exposed stone and red-brick dining room on rue du Nil.

For the past year there’s been a buzz surrounding Frenchie and last night’s wonderfully surprising and delicious meal offers proof that the buzz is deserved.

I started with Maquereau fumé, asperges, livèche, cresson, a rather simple description that came nowhere close to describing the layers of harmonious flavours Marchand created. A warm fillet of smoked mackerel rested atop a deep green purée of lovage and cress. Three small dollops of lemon curd were stragetically placed on the mackerel, the tart sweetness offsetting the salty smokiness of the fish and the smoked asparagus. A few strewn stalks of raw wild asparagus added a fresh crunch to the dish.

My main course of Poitrine de cochon au miel et aux épices, navets, radis didn’t disappoint, either. On the delightfully chewy side of tender, the honey-sweetened pork belly was balanced by the radishes’ and turnip purée’s pepperiness. A jus made from the braising liquid and a green vegetable sauce, along with a couple slices of pickled radish, rounded off the flavours.

While my cheese course of Camembert affiné au calvados, chutney de pomme made for a classic sweet-savoury cheese plate, The Wife’s Panna cotta à la verveine, rhubarbe, fraises and our friend S’s Tarte aux fruits de la passion, caramel au beurre salé were the final course standouts.

Frenchie offers two starters, two mains, a cheese plate, and two desserts, which makes it perfect for two yet still perfectly enjoyable for four or more. An impressive wine list for so small a restaurant only adds to the surprise.

This is true market-inspired cuisine, fresh and local, yet without the self-righteous smugness and pretension that unfortunately accompanies similar restaurants in the States.  I want my food without politics, thank you very much. So thank you, M. Marchand, for delivering the goods without the goodist attitude.

Last night, there were 28 diners and Frenchie was full. Reservations, needless to say, are hard to come by. At €35 for three courses, it may be one of the best deals in Paris.